My mother’s great-grandfather was from Castilla y León—that central Spanish region known for fine cheeses, wine, jamon (a.k.a. ham) and majestic castles. When I travelled to the land of my maternal ancestors, discovering what might have been on my gran abuelo’s plate or glass was a revelation.

Spain is much more than a “sun and beach” destination. It’s a country with unique regions, geography and cultures steeped in proud, time-honoured culinary traditions that span generations.  From artisanal cheeses and biodynamic wines to other edible gems, getting to the heart of Spain’s sustainable culinary wonders comes alive when visiting organic, sustainable farms, restaurants and markets and meeting the people who bring the customs of their ancestors to life.

To ensure this, the Spanish government has made sustainable gastronomy and cultural tourism a national priority that preserves its natural and cultural heritage. This is, according to Turespaña, the third most important tourism sector in the country. Their data shows that the number of tourists visiting for its gastronomic, cultural and wine-related activities is increasing. Sharing the country’s rich patrimony with visitors means local ingredients, dishes and agricultural practices live on for generations and that agrarian challenges, such as rural depopulation, reverse.

In rural Zamora, for example, Felix Vicente Pastor—considered one of the country’s most outstanding cheesemakers—keeps the art of shepherding and cheese-making flourishing at his family’s artisanal dairy. This family operation handles every detail, including sourcing milk from its herd of Churra sheep, a Castilian breed. Slow-ripened (6–12 months) in high-humidity cellars, Pastor’s Zamorano cheese offers a flavour that’s intense without being overwhelming. You’ll taste notes of walnut, grass and cream in this piquant cheese—perfect with a crusty loaf of bread or with some of the region’s ham, olives and a bottle of red, like the full-bodied Toro DO from the nearby town of the same name.

At the organic, beautifully manicured, slow food movement supporter Hacienda Zorita, also in Zamora, you can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of their cheese-making process from a balcony overlooking the pristine facilities. Call ahead and arrange for a cheese and wine tasting.  At the estate’s restaurant, sip some of Hacienda Zorita’s delicious Syrah, the same that coats some of their cheese’s rind, and enjoy a seasonal, organic, farm-fresh meal. And by farm fresh, I mean that Hacienda Zorita’s 300 hectares of farmland, situated amid natural pastures, wheat fields and oak tree forests, produces everything from vegetables, wines and jamon Iberico to olive oils, including the milk for those unforgettable cheeses.

Farther south in the heart of the Bahía de Cádiz natural park in El Puerto de Santa María, you’ll find 3-star Michelin Chef Ángel León’s restaurant, Aponiente. In 2022, it was declared the “World’s Most Sustainable Restaurant” at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants annual awards. Executive Chef Ángel León’s focus is the conservation and preservation of the ocean, using sustainably caught seafood, and marine plants such as eelgrass in his dishes. In fact, he was able to domesticate the Zostera marina plant, making him a seafood world pioneer! Go for the sea ham (red tuna belly) and the speckled sea bass sausage and stay for the tuna tail osso buco.

Or shop, snack and dine like locals at one of the hundreds of neighbourhood gourmet food markets. In Madrid, head to the San Antón market and grab a slice of award-winning tortilla (a potato and egg Spanish-style omelette) and a wedge of aged Manchego cheese. In Barcelona’s La Boqueria, grab fresh-from-the-water razor clam tapas and a glass of local Cava. Across Spain, the choices, flavours and culinary wonders are endless!

Stay and Dine in Sustainable Style

The stunning 12th-century Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine near Valladolid is a former monk’s monastery turned winery and estate/luxury boutique hotel.  Surrounded by thousands of pine trees planted by the current stewards, across the property’s 700 hectares, you’ll see scattered beehives producing organic honey that sweetens hotel pastries and more.

In wine production, the vintner’s goal is to distill the essence of the rich landscape into their spectacular wines. In fact, they chose not to plant vines that would grant them an official denominación de origen status, insisting that the wine should speak for itself. And it does! Spain’s highest honour—the Vino de Pago that certifies singular estates as Protected Denominations of Origin—was bestowed on Abadía Retuerta last summer.

Tasting Notes

At the Abadía Retuerta try their Pago Garduña Syrah or the refreshingly different Blanco de Guarda, an unusual blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo.  If you can, order the Iberico “Pepitoria” served with local pickled peppers, hazelnuts and mushrooms at the intimate Michelin-starred Refectorio. The flagship resto has also garnered a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainability and environmentally friendly practices.

Looking out on the tidy rows of grapevines, bounded by the elegance of cloistered Romanesque-Baroque monastery walls, we’re almost literally steeped in Spanish cultural heritage one bite and sip at a time. I wonder what my maternal ancestors would think of the efforts being made to keep time-honoured traditions alive on the palate and the plate. My guess is gran abuelo would approve. 

Family-Friendly Salamanca

No trip to this part of Spain is complete without a visit to the Old City of Salamanca. Head to this UNESCO World Heritage Site’s impressive, Baroque-style Plaza Mayor. Built in 1729, this former bullring has been transformed into the bustling city centre. From there, join a local tapas-hopping tour that the whole family can enjoy. From ruby-red slices of the prized acorn-fed ham Iberico to treats in the old Jewish quarter, this one’s for the memory books! Or drive to the Sierra de Francia mountain range for an agroturismo experience where eco-fruit and veggie gardens are planted around cottages. The idea is to harvest what you and your family eat from the garden and cook it in your own cottage, all with stunning views of the Sierra in the town of Villanueva del Conde. Olé!